plan

England by bike, camping under the stars. These were our goals for the summer of 2007. While we did have some ideas about where we wanted to go, we knew our final route would be chosen by circumstance, and liked the openness of this plan. Unlike other trips we had taken, this one wasn't as much about the destinations themselves as it was about what we'd see and experience along the way there.

arrival

We arrived at Heathrow airport in the early
morning hours of June 24, 2007. Our gear
would soon be expanded into cycling mode...

Paula hard at work resuscitating her bike.

We set out from Heathrow onto cool, misty, quiet roads. The feeling of being in a different place, on a different continent were intense, and exhilarating.

We rode towards a campsite in Chertsey where we had stayed on our first trip abroad in 1996. The scents of late spring and early summer brought welcome feelings of nostalgia.

chertsey and the thames path

The Chertsey campsite was just as we had remembered it - quiet, green and peaceful. Ducks and rabbits roamed the grounds in greater numbers than campers. The ducks sent a squad over early on to make contact and start demanding regular offerings.

Someone told us about a route following the Thames river that we could cycle all the way into London. It was beautiful, and pleasant to cycle. Our campsite was about 15 miles outside of central London, so we figured that it wouldn't take too long to get there...

...until we noticed that the river was flowing in the wrong direction...or, um, that we were pedaling in the wrong direction. So here we are, happily going the wrong way...

...and stumbling onto places like this because of it. When we finally did find our way, it turned out to be quite a long route into London - more like 30 miles (from our original starting point), since rivers tend to wind (a lot!), instead of the 15 we had anticipated. Still, it was a beautiful ride.

Richmond Park covers a huge (2500-acre) area just a few miles southwest of central London. Hundreds of Red and Fallow Deer roam the park. Here, motorists sit patiently and watch the graceful procession.

A bit closer to central London here, stopping to admire the architecture.

london

London is an amazing city, with almost too much to see and do, and is great for cyclists. Bike lanes are everywhere and are fairly easy to navigate once you're familiar with a few landmarks. Once you've figured them out, you join thousands of other cyclists, from all walks of life, on a network of routes that winds its way all over the city.

Just don't make the mistake of veering off the bike lanes. While drivers are generally polite and follow the rules, those black cabs will run you down if you get in their way!

Tabloid huckster, Trafalgar Square.

The tallest Ferris wheel in Europe, the London Eye.

Here I am, in full tourist mode, posing in front of Buckingham Palace.

Victoria Tower and Gardens, Westminster Palace (Houses of Parliament).

Statue of Richard the Lionheart, Houses of Parliament.

London is very green. There are large parks scattered throughout the city. You can find quiet peace just about anytime, anywhere.

Happy her helmet is cooler than mine.

A convenient way for us to get into London earlier each day, and have more time to look around, was to take the train. We found this out after cycling a few 60 mile (round-trip) days.

the round table

It was drizzly the day we set out from the London area, heading west. The roads we took most often were A or B roads, which were quiet most of the time. When there were cars, drivers always gave us plenty of space and sometimes drove patiently behind us as we struggled up steep hills.

After a thirty-mile ride through what turned from drizzle to downpour, it was time for a much needed and highly anticipated break, halfway to our destination, the city of Winchester.

By the time we reached our campsite, it had started to clear up, so we set our stuff out to dry. This wasn't always easy to do, so we'd take every opportunity we got.

Our backyard for the next couple of days.

The Gothic-style Winchester Guildhall.

The construction of Winchester Cathedral, one of England's largest cathedrals, began in 1079.

The cathedral is old, but changes with modern times. Here are two pieces of contemporary art on display in the cathedral.

Windows and walls of Winchester Castle's Great Hall, said to house King Arthur's Round Table.

Probably not Arthur's Round Table, since it dates from the 12th century, (ruled by kings that didn't include Arthur) but still an amazing artifact from the Age of Chivalry, and truly a wonder to behold.

Time to hit the road again, hoping for clear skies...

salisbury

Next we visited the city of Salisbury, famous for its medieval cathedral and its proximity to Stonehenge. It is a quiet, small city, easily explorable by foot. Our campsite, located near the ruins of the Iron Age hill fort Old Sarum, was one of the best we stayed at on our entire trip.

Packing up before setting out on the day's ride is never fun if it's been raining. Things are still wet when you get to your next destination. Here, I am airing out the tent before staking it in place.

View from the front door of our home for the next several days.

Paths meander through the city's quiet, peaceful parks. It was sunny most of the time we were there, but...

...even when it drizzled we had a great time. Here, we are sitting in a small park, slowly being surrounded by ducks and swans.

Swans are much bigger birds than I'd ever imagined. They're none too shy either, especially when they spot easy pickings sitting on a bench.

The quiet pedestrian streets and half-timbered Tudor buildings are but two of Salisbury's many charms.

15th century Poultry Cross

We found this wayward little duckling as it scuttled out of a tiny alley onto the sidewalk and then darted into a hair salon of all places. Paula followed it in, scooped it up amidst curious and semi-startled glances, then carried it to a quiet garden next to a church where she set it free.

When bikes bite back. Tevas might not be the best footwear for cycling, especially when they're wet and don't really help keep your foot on the pedal.

Coffee break at Costa's. We'd sit there a few hours sometimes, drinking these giant cups (more like pots) of coffee, recharging our batteries (literally), planning the next stretch of our route, and catching up on all the latest tabloid news. This particular rag exposed a nefarious plot of Islamist doctors lurking within the medical industry, waiting for their opportunity to unleash a holy-war and bring England down from the inside....

Salisbury Cathedral was built in the early 13th century and has the tallest spire in all of England.

A warm welcome to the cathedral.

Tomb of William de Longespee, Earl of Salisbury, illigitimate son of Henry II and half-brother to King John (of Magna Carta and Robin Hood fame), died 1226. When his tomb was opened in 1791, the well-preserved corpse of a rat, which carried traces of arsenic, was bizarrely found inside his skull.

British ales, breads and cheeses turned even the simplest of snacks into tasty meals. And, yes, the ale was strong...

Our fellow camper who befriended us over a bottle of wine, Peter, who was on holiday from Germany and on a quest to find "real" bread in England.